Ed Stoffel

Under normal conditions, with a properly operating receiver, good LNB and coax, signal quality is easily obtained when the satellite is located. Signal quality is then maximized by fine tuning settings of elevation, azimuth, and LNB polarity. If you fail to achieve signal quality by following these normal setup procedures, if your receiver seems to be unable to operate, review the receiver reset techniques below. If your Homesat receiver was operating normally but lost signal quality during a software download, it is important NOT TO MOVE YOUR DISH ANTENNA. Refer to the following instructions first!

This page is a collection of different techniques, which have helped many to restore their receivers from various states of “No Signal Quality”. Some customers experienced frozen receivers which would not respond to buttons or remote control commands, some merely lost signal quality, some have lost signal strength and signal quality, and some have lost picture and control. Some receivers stop producing operating voltage to the LNB, and some have generated a high level of noise, making it difficult to receive the satellite signal. One of these techniques may correct your receiver’s particular problem.

Please note that some of these techniques were discovered to work with the first smartcard software upgrade (version 5.15, build 11) and may no longer be the likely cause of a problem. Those particular techniques are listed at the bottom of this page.

  LNB IN - Check that your coax from the dish antenna is connected to the receiver’s “LNB IN” connector. Do NOT use “RF IN FROM ANTENNA” (labelled “RF IN” on some receivers). This troublesome connection shows you some signal, but never enough signal.

  CLEAR - Open the smartcard hatch door, and for a few seconds, hold down the CLEAR button. This has helped to restore receivers from a locked or frozen state. At times, such receivers do not respond to button or remote control commands. They may also merely fail to obtain signal quality.

  UNPLUG - Unplug the receiver. Wait 30 seconds, and plug it back in. This restarts the receiver’s software.

  DEFAULT SETTING, SYSTEM RESET -

1. Unplug your receiver from the power source. After 10 seconds, plug it back in. (Note: You should protect your satellite receiver by plugging it into a UL-approved surge suppressor. For best protection, I recommend you plug your satellite receiver and VCRs into a UPS battery backup with automatic voltage regulation and surge suppression).
2. Press the Menu button. Highlight “Installation” and Press “OK”.


3. Highlight “Default Setting” and press “OK”.


4. Receiver will perform a reset to the latest downloaded software. You should now see a prompt saying, “New Channel Data Available! [OK] Upgrade, [MENU] Cancel.” It is important that you press the MENU button!


5. Highlight the Installation button and press “OK.”


6. Highlight the Service Searching button and press “OK.”


7. Highlight the Manual Searching button and press “OK.” (Note: The Quality and Strength bars are red with early software versions, but green with the current version.)


8. Confirm that the first five sets of numbers match the following: D/L Freq = 11969; Symbol rate = 07234; Polarization = V; NIT search = ON; Sat No. = 01. Toggle EACH FIELD’S VALUE TO REENTER IT’S VALUE IN MEMORY if your current software version allows. Once you have manipulated each value, changing it away, then back to the correct value, move cursor to the “Sat No.” field, and press “OK”.


9. A box will appear in the lower right of the screen asking if you want to append. Highlight “Yes” and press “OK.”


10. A screen will appear that says, “Searching… press [menu] to skip.” Do not skip this step. Wait while the channel information is downloaded. Once the information is downloaded, you should see programming. Hit the menu button 3 times to exit all the set up screens.


11. You should now see FOUR BJ HomeSat channels.


12. Finally set the GMT offset value for your time zone. Press Menu, System Setting, Time Setting. Press the “VOL-” key repeatedly until your local time zone appears. Press Menu repeatedly to exit.

  IN-LINE AMPLIFIER - If you continue to lack signal quality, you may wish to try amplifying the incoming signal to your receiver. Some have found success by setting the dish antenna to what they believe is the best signal strength, and then adding the in-line amplifier. It is necessary to power down the receiver while disconnecting the coax to add the amplifier. For the specific model and installation directions, see our main page about Homesat installation.

  CHECK LNB VOLTAGE - If you continue to lack signal strength and signal quality, it may be necessary to test your receiver’s LNB voltage. If you have access to a volt meter, check that the receiver is supplying of approximately 13 volts DC to the “LNB IN” connector. Without voltage in this range, your LNB is unable to operate properly.

How to Measure Voltage - With the receiver off and unplugged, disconnect the coax at the dish antenna’s LNB. Now plug the receiver back in, and turn it on. If you have to lay the coax down, keep the disconnected end of it away from any metal or water. Set your volt meter to a DC voltage scale which would show at least 18 volts DC. Now touch your positive probe (RED) to the center conductor of the coax which is still connected to the receiver, and touch your negative probe (BLACK) to the outer part of the coax connector. Be very careful not to let your two probes touch one another while touching the coax, which would short-out your receiver’s DC power supply. You should see a reading of approximately 13 volts DC, indicating that your receiver is operating properly for HomeSat reception.

If you see approximately 18 volts, this means your receiver is in horizontal polarity mode, instead of the vertical polarity required to receive HomeSat. (The voltage level sent by the receiver controls the LNB polarity.) On the service searching page, under POLARITY, toggle this setting to “V”. If it already says “V”, toggle it to “H”, then back to “V”, and press “OK”. Recheck the voltage, to see if it has reset to a level of approximately 13 volts DC. If not, your receiver is stuck in horizontal mode. Before giving up, try some of the receiver techniques listed above, to restore the receiver to the proper operating voltage.

If you see a DC voltage level of about 1 volt, your receiver is not supplying enough voltage to operate the LNB. Contact HomeSat for an equipment exchange or replacement.

To eliminate the need for receiver-supplied DC voltage, you may install an LNB Phantom Power Supply. This option is preferable to buying a new receiver, if all you need is a source of LNB power.

Question: My receiver was working fine, but now all Homesat channels say “E16 Service Scrambled”. What’s wrong?
Advice: “E16 Service is currently scrambled” means that HomeSat’s channels are encrypted and require smartcard authorization. Following a power outage, or if someone removes your receiver’s smartcard, service will appear scrambled until reauthorized. This also occurs to those who tune their receiver to other services (non-Homesat). It’s a good idea to leave your receiver tuned to HomeSat at all times (or at least whenever you’re not viewing something else) so that you don’t miss updates and service authorization cycles. If service does not restore itself within a few hours, you may have missed a software upgrade. Compare your receiver’s software version number to that listed as current on the Homesat website. Your receiver’s software version is listed under system settings, system status. If your ‘b’ number is not the current version listed by Homesat, you’ll need to download the latest receiver software by pressing system settings, ca function, upgrade software. New subscribers often see this message until their receiver is authorized, which should occur within a few hours… and often in minutes. If you are running the current software version and cannot reestablish service by resetting your receiver, call HomeSat customer service with your customer number, receiver serial number (last six digits) and the smartcard serial number (last six digits). This information can also be emailed to HomeSat during busy times. I recommend keeping these numbers in a handy place so you don’t have to pull out your receiver each time it is needed.

Question: My “signal strength” is only in the 40s, but I have signal lock and signal quality. Is that OK?

Advice: You need signal strength in the 50s. You may have signal lock now during low noise conditions, but during bad weather, solar flares, or co-channel interference, you will probably loose the signal. To give you a stronger signal, you may wish to obtain an amplifier. They sell for $9.99 and are sold by Radio Shack. Here’s a link to information about the In-Line DBS Amplifier. I recommend for solving marginal signal problems: Radio Shack Cat# 16-1156. It’s actually made by RCA. If unavailable at your local Radio Shack, it can be ordered online. It is also available directly from RCA, at a higher list price: RCA Model# VHD903

.

Question: My “signal strength” is 61, but my “signal quality” is only 60-65. Is that OK?

Advice: You have good signal strength, but poor signal quality, indicating slight mistuning at the dish antenna. Try loosening the LNB clamp enough to rotate the LNB. Make small adjustments, stopping to see the effect. You should achieve a signal quality close to 100. If unable to achieve this by rotating the LNB, you may need to make SLIGHT adjustments to azimuth or elevation. Only loosen the dish enough to make the adjustments, and mark your final settings with a permanent marker or nail polish.

Question: Once I got signal lock, I pressed SELECT, but my receiver froze up. The downloading data bar is frozen, half-way across the screen. What do I do?

Advice: Sometimes these receivers freeze up. Another type of freeze turns the whole screen green. Unplug the receiver for a few seconds, plug it back in, and try again. For more methods, see our Receiver Reset Techniques

.

Question: My “signal strength” is in the 70s, no matter where I point the dish, and I can’t find the satellite.

Advice: There is a slight chance that you are experiencing RF interference from nearby KU tranmissions, such as radar. This would show high signal strength when pointing the dish close to the horizon in a particular direction. If this is happening, you’ll need to position your dish antenna in a spot where you can use your house or another structure (preferably containing metal) to block the source of interference, but still allow an unobstructed view of the satellite. However, if your receiver is truly showing a high signal strength, even when pointed at the ground, this is called a “high noise floor”. It may be possible to clear this condition by using one of the Receiver Reset Techniques.

Question: I have HomeSat programming, but my receiver says I have no signal quality.

Advice: “Sometimes receivers lie!” Actually, the data is corrupted. You’re probably viewing the on-screen meters which appear by pressing “Signal” on your remote. If you go to the “Service Searching” page, these meters may show your actual signal strength and signal quality values. If not, your receiver may benefit from one of the Receiver Reset Techniques

.

Question: My receiver is asking for a PIN NUMBER. I entered the factory default of “0000” (four zeros) but it says “Invalid Pin #”. What do I do?

Advice: Try other repeated numbers. The current software version uses four-digit PIN numbers. My own receiver was found to have the default PIN number of “1111”. One HomeSat customer reported a solution provided by customer service: they exited out of the installation procedure, pushed the TeleText button on the bottom of the remote control, and entered the number 444, followed by OK. I have been unable to replicate that solution.

Question: How could I determine if HomeSat is off the air?

Advice: If you don’t see a picture and receive the “BAD SIGNAL” screen, the HomeSat signal isn’t being received by your receiver. It might be off the air, but it is probably a problem with the alignment of your dish antenna, or interference. I recommend marking the dish bracket so you will know whether it’s been moved. Mark around the moving parts - the elevation adjustment nut, and between parts which move when changing azimuth. I paint a straight line up the back of the pole, onto the bracket. You could also paint lines just behind the sides of the bracket. Then, if moved, you will see it, and know where to put the dish back to. You could also call HomeSat and ask them if their signal is down, or call another subscriber, and ask if their signal is gone, too. If others are still receiving the signal, your dish is at least slightly off-signal, and needs to be fine tuned. Adjusting one thing at a time, carefully pan or tilt the dish to improve the signal. You may also need to fine tune the LNB orientation. But if you were receiving the signal, you are only slightly off. Often subscribers install equipment during low-noise conditions, and need to fine-tune their dish during bad weather, or high-noise conditions such as solar flares and co-channel interference.

Question: How can I tell if problems are occurring at HomeSat?

Advice: HomeSat transmits programming at their satellite uplink facility in Greenville, South Carolina. When severe weather occurs there, the transmission may be affected. You can use their zip code of 29614 at Weather.com to check their weather conditions. HomeSat informs subscribers of such conditions with special messages across the bottom of your television picture.

Question: We wasted time hooked up to the WRONG cable, since we have two running from the deck into the house. Is there a way to test the line?

Advice: When the LNB is connected by wire to the receiver, and your receiver is in setup mode, you should always see SOME signal level. If you see ZERO, your cable is not connected from the LNB to the receiver, or the receiver is not in setup mode. Also make sure you are connected to the receiver where it says, “LNB In”. Finally, it may be that the cable is bad. Once you have a working cable from the LNB to the receiver, you should label each end of this cable to keep from confusing it with others. Radio Shack sells cable labels you write on, with clear plastic that wraps around the writing to protect it.

Question: Where should I have our equipment repaired?

Advice: First attempt to reset your receiver by unplugging the unit for a few minutes, and then plugging it back in. Check all your connections. Try replacing the coax, or taking the receiver close to your dish antenna and using a short piece of coax. If you’ve already replaced the coax cable, and still have no picture, try to determine whether you might have a bad LNB. (Perhaps another HomeSat user could check it for you on their own system.) Once you’re sure it’s not the coax or LNB (no signal strength on the installation screen), email
HomeSat Customer Service. They may arrange an equipment exchange, or replacement. Only HomeSat has the software necessary to operate your Homesat receiver.

Question: What are solar outages and how can we prevent them?

Advice: Brief periods of interference occur each spring and fall during those times when the sun passes directly behind Homesat’s satellite, from the customer’s perspective. The sun has a noise temperature of over 25,000 degrees K. As the sun passes directly behind the satellite, as viewed by your dish antenna, reception may be degraded or overpowered by the overwhelming RF noise from the sun. The phenomenon occurs twice a year, during the Spring Equinox and during the Autumn Equinox. The exact time and duration depend on your actual location, and the size of your dish antenna. Solar interference is unavoidable, but can be minimized by peaking signal strength and signal quality. HomeSat reception would be available in other distant states during times of your own interference. The event may occur for several days both before and after the peak day, for approximately one week. The interference should last no more than 6 or 7 minutes each day. Software downloads are to be avoided during these times. The event will occur six minutes later each day, with the maximum degradation occuring at the following times. It is predicted that HomeSat customers will experience peak solar interference each fall from September 30th to October 15th, at the following times: 2:28PM Eastern, 1:23PM Central, 12:13PM Mountain, 11:07AM Pacific, or 10:04AM for the eastern portion of Alaska. Peak solar interference is also predicted to occur each spring from February 23rd to March 12th, at the following times: 1:52PM Eastern, 12:44PM Central, 11:36AM Mountain, 10:30AM Pacific, or 9:30AM for the eastern portion of Alaska. The actual time depends on what portion of the time zone customers live in. Signal loss can be minimized by using an upgraded dish antenna with higher gain, but there will still be times that you loose your signal.

General Receiver Issues:

  If your receiver has been disconnected for any length of time, and in need of reauthorization, this should occur after being connected for a few minutes.

  The current HomeSat receiver models (8009IR, H2100IR) are equipped with three diagnostic lights on the front panel. The red light indicates the receiver has power. The green light indicates that the receiver is receiving a signal from the satellite. The yellow light indicates that the receiver is turned off (in stand-by mode). The yellow light also indicates reception of signals from your remote control by flashing with each keypress.

  If using the current HomeSat receiver, press the SIGNAL button on your remote to see a display of your receiver’s signal strength and signal quality. During poor weather conditions, your signal strength will be lower than normal. Compare your current signal strength and signal quality to the numbers achieve on the day of your installation, or during good weather conditions before any problems began. RED bars now indicate GOOD signal strength and signal quality. Low signal strength during good weather is an indication that you are not receiving the full strength of the signal from your dish antenna. Low signal quality indicates a change in the tuning alignment of your dish antenna, or failing equipment.

  Check that the incoming coax from your dish antenna goes into “LNB IN” (current HomeSat receivers). The “Antenna In” connection only provides a slight connection, seeming to work poorly.

  If receiver trouble occurs, it is possible to restart the receiver’s software by unplugging the receiver for 30 seconds, plugging it back in, and turning it back on. Once your time resets, the picture should also be restored.

  Several times a year, the operating software of HomeSat receivers is upgraded… automatically for receivers which are turn on and tuned to one of the Homesat channels at the time of automatic updates, usually Sunday mornings at 5:00AM Eastern. If your receiver not running the latest software version, it is necessary to perform a software download for proper operation. Under “System Settings”, then “System Status”, your receiver’s software version is displayed next to “S/W ID” or “S/W Ver”.

  Some HomeSat customers are having difficulties finding the satellite signal, have experienced a loss of signal after installation, or a loss of signal after downloading new software. If having similar receiver troubles, you may benefit by using our Receiver Reset Techniques.

Dish Antenna Issues:

  Check that the dish antenna mount is unmovable, and all hardware adjustments are tight.

  Check the marks you made on all adjustable parts of the mount, and the LNB, to know whether anything has moved. Without such marks, it may be necessary to check dish and LNB alignment, after ruling out other possible causes.

  If mounted on a ground pole, make sure the pole can not turn. Apply some pressure attempting to turn the dish and see if the pole holds firmly in place. Also check the pole with a level for plumb, to be sure the pole has not sunk or shifted since installation.

Coax Cable Issues:

  Check that all coax used was high-quality RG-6 coax cable. RG-59 should NOT be used, even in short lengths because of its poor performance at high LNB frequencies (950-1450MHz). It is best to use NEW RG-6 coax for a new installation. If old RG-6 coax already exists, locate the satellite using new coax before attaching the dish antenna to an older coax run.

  Check the coax cable connections for physical or water damage, or looseness. The coax cable weatherproofing at the LNB and any other outdoor connections should be secure.

  Check that all outdoor coax is secured with cable-ties so that it does not become damaged flapping around during windy conditions.

  Check that your coax cable is connected to a “static-grounding block”, which is properly grounded.

By checking, substituting or replacing these one at a time, it is possible to isolate the problem. It is also logical to start with the least expensive possibilities.

  Temporarily bypass the static grounding block by using an F-female to F-female adapter in its place.

  Temporarily bypass the inline DBS amp (if used) by using an F-female to F-female adapter in its place.

  Temporarily replace your existing coax, using high-quality RG-6 coax temporarily along the floor and ground to your dish. If you don’t have enough cable to reach, temporarily position your receiver and a small television close enough to your dish antenna for a test. If you find the replacement of coax solves your problem, be gentle with your new coax cable. Never crunch, completely bend or fold coax cable, which would damage the center conductor. Never pull hard on coax cable which can also damage the center conductor. Sometimes damage to coax is not evident until temperature changes separate broken pieces inside.

  If possible, test your receiver on the dish antenna of another HomeSat family or school. Temporarily replace their receiver with yours, or use LNB Out (current HomeSat receivers), which is a copy of the signal from their dish antenna through their receiver to run into your receiver.

  Using a volt meter, test your receiver’s LNB power, found where the incoming coax connects - “LNB IN” (current HomeSat receivers). You should find a voltage level of approximately 13 volts DC. Use an RF adapter or short piece of coax to overcome difficulty reading voltage from center pin.

  Using a volt meter, test that the LNB power is reaching the end of your coax run to power the LNB. Unplug coax from LNB, and leave coax attached at receiver. Turn receiver ON. With coax attached to the receiver, measure at the LNB end of the coax. There should be a voltage level of approximately 13 volts DC. If your receiver is not supplying the proper LNB voltage, try the Receiver Reset Techniques to attempt to restore it. If unable to restore it, you’ll need to contact Homesat for equipment repair or replacement. To eliminate the need for receiver-supplied DC voltage, you may install an LNB Phantom Power Supply.

  Using a ohms meter, test your coax cable for continuity. With an ohms scale selected, touch your probes together. The reading you should see is complete continuity (no resistance). You should see good continuity on a coax cable from center pins on each end, and from outer shielding on each end. You should NOT see continuity from center pin to the outer shielding. If you do, check anything connected to the coax, such as an inline amp, F-F barrel, or static grounding block. These connecting devices may be damaged, causing the short from center pin to ground.

  If you have established that your dish antenna is correctly aligned and tuned, that your coax is good, and that your receiver is operational including it’s ability to provide the proper LNB voltage, it is reasonable to conclude that your LNB has failed. A bad LNB will normally provide no signal strength, but will occasionally show a poor signal strength and no signal quality. HomeSat charges $22 for a replacement LNB for the 87cm ADTH dish antenna, plus shipping. Replacement LNBs for the older Channel Master dish antenna are $55 plus shipping.

Ohms Test of LNB: An ohms test of an LNB is often inconclusive, because a failed LNB will not usually show an incorrect ohms value. While it is true that some failed LNBs read as “open” on an ohms test, ADTH-manufactured LNBs normally read close to 6.5 Mega-ohms. An additional concern is that if one uses an inexpensive multimeter incapable of reading Megaohms, such a meter will show a “false open”. For these reasons, we do not suggest this method of diagnosis. Accurate tests involve equipment which typical Homesat subscribers are unlikely to own.

  If you eliminated other possible causes, your receiver may need to be repaired or replaced. For information, call HomeSat Tech Support at 1-800-739-8199, or via email at hsatinfo@bjup.com.

  Subscribers wanting to return a receiver for repair or replacement need an RMA number and shipping instructions. New receivers under warranty are replaced. The charge for diagnosis of out-of-warranty receivers is $75. Receivers with component failure are repaired at no additional fee, but receivers with main board failures, lightning and static damage are not repaired. The approximate turn-around time for receivers is 10 days. Receivers should be properly packaged and insured, as those damaged due to improper packaging are not covered by HomeSat. The original receiver box should be placed in a larger box and surrounded by protective packing. Be sure to include your name and address inside the carton with the receiver.

  E01 No CA Module : The receiver is missing the Irdeto Conditional Access Module, required to receive HomeSat programming authorization. You must acquire the satellite signal, and download the current software. If this is not possible, contact customer service.

  E04 Insert Smart Card : The receiver needs the smartcard serial number reentered. Pull out the smartcard, and reinsert the card, with the gold chip down, and imprinted arrows on top, inserted first. If signal is not restored, unplug receiver from power. (If using a power strip, turn power strip off instead of unplugging.) Remove smartcard from receiver, and reinsert card, making sure the gold chip is down, and inprinted arrows are on top, inserted first. Restore the power to your receiver.

  E05 Unknown card : The receiver does not recognize the inserted card. It is possibly inserted wrong (backwards or upside down) or is not an Irdeto smartcard.

  E16 Service is currently scrambled : HomeSat’s channels are encrypted and require smartcard authorization. Normally, these channels become authorized within a few hours. If this message remains, the receiver’s access to programming is denied. If your receiver’s software is not current, you may need to download the current version to restore service. Your receiver’s software version is shown under system status, and should be compared with that listed as current on the Homesat website. If your receiver continues to lack authorization to receive programming, contact HomeSat customer service with your customer number, receiver serial number (last six digits) and the smartcard serial number (last six digits). This information can be emailed to HomeSat during busy times.

  E28 Credit Limit Exceeded : The customer needs to contact customer service to resolve an outstanding bill. While this is a standard Irdeto error code, it is not known whether HomeSat plans to make use of it.

  E30 Service is currently scrambled : This error is similiar to the E16 error, but usually goes away in a few seconds if your service is authorized. HomeSat’s channels are encrypted and require smartcard authorization. This error may be caused by a temporary loss of the authorization stream.

  E42 Child Lock Active : The receiver is in a locked condition, requiring the user to enter the parental PIN number. Ordinarily, it is not necessary to program this feature. If unable to unlock the receiver, contact customer service.

  E48 No Signal : Your receiver has lost the incoming signal, but the cause is unknown. It may be possible to reset your receiver by unplugging for 30 seconds. It may also be necessary to troubleshoot the problem using techniques listed above. If this happens frequently, it probably indicates a problem unrelated to software, such as poor dish alignment, poor lnb tuning, intermittent obstructions, failing cables, or failing LNB voltage. It is also possible that your receiver is taking “power hits” from varying AC voltage in your home.

  E64 Short Circuit Detected : The receiver has detected a short circuit in the coax line, typically indicating a problem beyond the receiver, in the coax cable, grounding block, in-line amp or LNB. It is necessary to disconnect the coax cable and identify the problem before reconnecting. While this is a standard Irdeto error code, it is not known whether Homesat’s hardware is able to perform the function.

 

  ERR 3 : This code appears in the receiver’s front, oval channel window, and indicates a smartcard with the wrong serial number. It is necessary to insert the smartcard programmed for that particular receiver. This may occur if you have more than one receiver and have switched smartcards. If using the correct smartcard, remove and reinsert the card. If unsuccessful, remove the smartcard, unplug the receiver for 30 seconds, reinsert the card, and plug the receiver back into power. (If using a powerstrip, turn off the power strip instead of unplugging to reduce the chances of arcing.)

  bE 1 = : This code appears in the receiver’s front, oval channel window, and indicates a fatal receiver error. It is necessary to arrange hardware replacement.

  - 1 : This code appears in the receiver’s front, oval channel window, and indicates a fatal receiver error caused by download new software without a smartcard inserted. Contact customer service to arrange hardware replacement.

Homesat receivers can be programmed by selecting classes from the Electronic Program Guide (EPG), or by entering the channel, day, and time information directly. If the number of classes you wish to record exceeds the number of available events, it is possible to simply schedule the necessary channel changes by programming the FIRST class following each channel change and then editing the end time to include the remaining classes on that day.

RECEIVER SETUP MODE:

Before plugging in your receiver, your coax should already be connected from the dish antenna into your receiver, where it is labelled “LNB IN”.

With the current HomeSat receiver (8009IR or H2100IR), press MENU, then select INSTALLATION, enter “0000” (or other PIN number you have set), select SERVICE SEARCHING using CH+/- and OK, then MANUAL SEARCHING - OK. (Once you find the satellite, hit OK, then YES to add channels.)

Once you power up your receiver and enter setup mode, your signal level should be above zero, if the dish antenna is connected to the receiver properly. If you have no signal strength at all, check your connections. If they are all correct, follow my instructions on Troubleshooting.

SETTING LNB POLARITY:

It is important to preset your LNB polarity so that your receiver will find the satellite. Use the recommended LNB polarity specified for your area. Facing the front of the dish antenna, turn the LNB to the left if your polarity number is positive; turn the LNB to the right if your polarity number is negative. Those who live on the east coast have positive LNB polarity settings; those who live on the west coast have negative LNB polarity settings. Be sure you don’t leave that LNB plastic bracket loose. The LNB won’t pick up the satellite if the bracket is loose, and it’s slightly off.

Tech-speak: There are two transponder channels on the same frequency, but ONE is polarized horizontally, and the other is polarized vertically. The receiver needs the LNB tuned to CANCEL OUT the other channel, so that the HOMESAT CHANNEL will come in clearly. The satellite we are pointing at is now called AMC 15 (Sep. 2008), parked at 105° West. If you also live in New Mexico at 105° West, you would just point your dish antenna due south, and align the polarity of your LNB straight up and down. BUT most of us live east or west of 105°, and we must turn our LNB to correctly match ITS polarity with that of the satellite. If you fail to do this, your signal quality will be low or non-existant. In my own case, the closest listed city is Washington DC with a polarity of +27 degrees. If you are in New Mexico your LNB polarization is to be set at 0 degrees. But if you are on the California coast your LNB polarization could be as much as minus 30 degrees. And if you are in Maine your LNB polarization could be as much as plus 30 degree. So peaking the dish and adjusting the polarity of the LNB will greatly improve your Signal Quality reading. We have had some customers with SQ starting at 50 and after adjustment ending with 90. In my own tests, I’ve been able to cause signal quality to drop to zero by mis-tuning the LNB polarity.

SETTING AZIMUTH:

Azimuth is the compass direction, used to locate the satellite from your location. Using a magnetic compass, 0° = magnetic North, 90° = East, 180° = South, and 270° = West. Using a quality compass, determine the correct azimuth (compass heading), and note that direction, either with a distant visual landmark, or with an object you position several feet out in front of you. Have someone walk out toward that object (from your vantage point), turn around and observe the dish. Adjust the dish so that the LNB appears centered.

SETTING ELEVATION:

Elevation is the rise above the horizon, as marked by angle markers on the side of the dish antenna mounting bracket. Using the elevation figure for your area, try starting about 15 degrees HIGHER, and slowly tilt down while watching your signal strength and signal quality, in order to find the satellite.

In the latest Homesat dish antenna (2003), the elevation scale is very clearly marked. To adjust your dish antenna’s elevation setting, look at the elevation scale and tilt the dish using the elevation screw adjustment, observing the elevation scale and indicator.

In the older design dish antenna, the antenna’s elevation may seem unclear. The elevation scale on older HomeSat antennas was etched into the side of the metal. Look at where the zero is, and where the 10 is, and see that the number 10 comes before the mark for 10 degrees. So if your elevation is 40 degrees, you point the arrow mark to the line AFTER 40.

Very soon, you should see some changes in signal strength, and if your compass heading is correct, you will see SIGNAL QUALITY begin to register. If so, make very small adjustments, attempting to improve the signal QUALITY, and then lock it down. (If you do NOT see any signal quality, your compass heading is probably incorrect!)

Once you’re happy with the signal, tighten brackets enough that the dish can not move on its own. Make slight adjustments azimuth, elevation and your LNB polarity, to maximize your signal strength and signal quality number. You should achieve a signal strength of at least 50, and signal quality in the 90s. If your signal quality is lower, fine tune the LNB polarity to achieve a number in the 90s, as close to 100 as possible. Then tighten all bolts and the LNB clamp.

I strongly urge you to MARK YOUR ELEVATION, AZIMUTH and POLARITY positions. Your dish could get bumped or moved, and marks will help you reset the antenna. Also when you loose the signal from time to time, you can examine your marks to know whether the problem is on your end.

INSTALL DISH WITH TV NEARBY:

It is MUCH EASIER to install this equipment by running an extention cord, receiver, and a small TV outside nearby the dish. While attempting to point the dish, you will be able to see the results of your movements instantly. Relying on verbal reports from inside the house makes the project more difficult. (One subscriber says to call it impossible.) If it is too difficult to locate the TV nearby, you’ll need someone to communicate the signal strength and quality numbers to you quickly with each adjustment you make, as you search for the satellite. Seeing it for yourself is easier than relying on reports, but both will work. If you can barely hear, or your helper is slow to relay the information, it can get frustrating. Homesat installers have used FRS 2-way radios, telephones, cellphones and intercoms, but rely on FREQUENT signal strength reports from inside. However, in extreme hot or cold weather, it may be necessary to have the receiver inside to avoid temperature-related problems.

Connect the provided RG-6 coax cable to the LNB FIRST, then to your receiver! (You can short out your receiver if you do it the other way around.) Once your coax cable is connected to the LNB and receiver, the receiver is sending voltage to the amplifier in the LNB and receiving back something. All cable is not the same — please don’t use RG-59 coax. When making connections, make sure the center conductor of the cable goes into the hole of the connector.. and screw on the connector. If your dish is mounted to a plumb (straight up) pole, the LNB is mounted and pointing toward the dish, and the LNB bracket is tight but still adjustable, you’re ready to point.

I’ve found it extremely helpful to have the HomeSat receiver and a small TV right next to me when setting up the dish. Be sure to use a television which displays the entire screen, because the current HomeSat receiver model places the Signal Quality reading right along the bottom of a television screen. On some model televisions, this information may be cut off.

We didn’t have a small TV available, but the family STILL dragged one outside. Doing so allowed us to lock in on the satellite in minutes! We set the azimuth (compass heading), set the LNB “UP-label” facing up, and tilted the dish about 20 degrees higher than the recommended elevation. Then, watching the TV screen, we slowly tilted down, stopping after making each small adjustment downward until we saw signal quality, indicating we found the correct satellite.

Then we made very SMALL adjustments to elevation and azimuth to bring the signal quality to 80. Finally, we made SMALL adjustments to the LNB, turning it a little, and stepping back to see the results. We settled for a signal strength of 60, and signal quality of 96.

WRONG SATELLITE?

If performing this adjustment fails to produce any signal quality, you may be pointed at the WRONG SATELLITE. Your receiver indicates levels of signal strength from a number of satellites in the sky, but after September 2008, will only indicate signal quality and LOCK from HomeSat’s new satellite, AMC 15. If you are moving your dish from Galaxy 26 to AMC 15, the diagram here shows the satellites you must pan across to reach the correct satellite.

Nearby in the sky are other satellites, which will also indicate signal strength, but not signal quality. There are actually satellites in the sky every 2 degrees, but they won’t all affect your HomeSat receiver. Your compass headings will vary, depending on where you live on the planet.

Tech-speak: The satellites lie in an arc called the Clarke Belt, named after Arthur C. Clarke, who in the 1940’s, postulated world-wide communications via geo-stationary satellites in orbit.

SEARCH PATTERN METHOD:

If you do not yet detect the satellite, you’ll need to set up a search pattern. Each sweep of the sky should be done tilting down at a new compass heading. Place an object several feet in front of you indicating what you believe to be the proper compass heading. Preset your LNB to the approximate LNB setting, as mentioned above. Tighten the azimuth clamp enough so it does not slip, and tilt the dish up well past the proper elevation (at least 15 degrees too high). With your receiver in setup mode, and watching signal level and signal quality, SLOWLY tilt down. If you reach the horizon and fail to achieve signal quality, stop, pan the dish to the right a little, and try again. Tilt the dish up too far, and slowly tilt down, watching your signal strength and quality. After each complete tilt down, make similiar, small adjustments in azimuth (compass heading). The advantage of tilting down on each pass (instead of panning left or right) is that you are less likely to get fooled by the wrong satellite. Remember, the wrong satellite will not indicate any signal quality.

On a successful pass, you will be tilting down and notice your signal strength rising to numbers in the 50s, 60s, and possibly into the 70s. Once in the 50s or 60s, you begin to see an indication of signal quality. Tilt the dish down as long as the signal quality number rises. If it falls, stop, and tilt back up again, maximizing the number. Now carefully pan left or right to increase signal strength AND quality for that adjustment. Finally, slowly turn the LNB to maximize the signal quality. By making small adjustments to all three (azimuth, elevation and LNB polarity), you should be able to achieve a signal quality number in the high 90s, peaking near 100.

POINTING THE DISH

So you’re getting good signal levels above 50, but no signal lock. What’s wrong? Your equipment is receiving a signal, but doesn’t know if it’s pointed at the CORRECT satellite. If it can’t lock to the AMC 15 signal, it doesn’t show any signal quality or signal lock. You may be on the wrong satellite, very close to the correct one. An accurate compass helps avoid this problem. With a good compass, and correct elevation, you can point this equipment in minutes. If you don’t have a clear view in general due to trees or other homes, a quality compass is truly needed to determine where to setup your dish antenna. But if you have a completely unobstructed view, and an idea of which part of the sky to search, you can TRY to set up a logical search pattern, looking to peak your signal strength AND QUALITY. But you are likely to pickup signals from other satellites that may frustrate your efforts.

Some have trouble when pointing about 3° above a neighbors roof. They get a good signal level, but no signal quality or signal lock. What’s wrong? It’s called the The Fresnel Effect. Beware of shooting straight over someone else’s rooftop. Shooting too close, effectively right through the rising heat of their house distorts the satellite transmission signal. It’s like trying to get a good picture looking down a hot road on a summer day. Just as light waves are bent over a hot road, the satellite signal does not pass clearly through the escaping heat over someone else’s rooftop. I realize this may be difficult from locations to the west, where the ONLY angle is low to the horizon, and over rooftops. Do what you can to increase the distance over rooftops, even if it means RAISING the height of your dish mount. Hopefully you can just move the antenna further away from the roof you’re trying to clear, or shoot around it.

Note: As of September 2008, the satellite used by Homesat is AMC 15. Information about this satellite is available from LYNGSAT: http://www.lyngsat.com/amc15.html. Tracking tools to calculate the correct elevation, azimuth and skew at your location are available at: http://www.n2yo.com/satellite.php?s=25626.

The 2008-2009 school year is the final year that the Homesat service will be available via satellite, scheduled to end on May 31, 2009. After that date, the classes will only be available through alternative means.